How to choose a good and effective cosmetic with vitamin C?
In this article you will learn:
What are the most effective forms of vitamin C used in cosmetics?
Whether concentration is really critical?
What is true and what is a myth about the effects of vitamin C on the skin?
We have a large selection of cosmetics with this vitamin on the market at very different prices. Sometimes we see the concentration used in the preparation on the packaging. It would seem that the higher the concentration, the higher the effectiveness. In practice, however, it is absolutely not unequivocal. The form of vitamin C present in the cosmetic is of key importance.
At the moment, in cosmetic applications, several forms of vitamin C and its derivatives are used that differ significantly not only in the concentration at which they begin to effectively affect the skin but also in their properties. Vitamin C is no longer reserved only for resistant complexions. Delicate, couperose, and mature skin can now benefit from its anti-aging, brightening, and skin-strengthening properties.
Vitamin C is the vitamin of youth and this term best describes its broad spectrum of influence.
The cheapest form of vitamin C in cosmetics – the most negative
Ascorbic acid: the basic pure form of vitamin C. It is definitely the cheapest – hence it is often used. For some complexions, it may be a good solution. Its disadvantage is high instability – it decomposes quickly under the influence of light, oxygen, and temperature. It may happen that the cosmetic loses its activity in the cosmetic over time. In addition, it requires a very low pH – so for more sensitive skin, it can be irritating. It is rather effective in high concentrations – even 10-20%. During its use, our skin becomes more sensitive to sunlight. Due to the low pH, it is not recommended to use it simultaneously with substances requiring a higher pH – so, for example, it should not be combined with niacinamide. Many beliefs about the effects of vitamin C come from the action of pure ascorbic acid. Hence the concerns about irritation and skin sensitization to the sun. The cosmetics market is already offering new, very effective, and skin-friendly solutions. There are several forms of vitamin C and its derivatives currently available in cosmetics – it is worth being aware of this and looking for the one that is right for you.
Which vitamin C for the face is the best in cosmetics?
Our definite favorite is the Vitamin C oil – Ascorbyl Tetraizopalmitate. Its invention was actually a breakthrough on the cosmetics market and allowed for the introduction of extremely effective formulas. She is very stable. You can be sure that it works actively on the skin until the last drop of the serum. It is thanks to its oily form that it shows a good affinity to the lipid layer of our skin and has great ease in penetrating between the cell cement – so it penetrates deeply and thus affects living cells. In addition, it is gentle on the skin and does not cause irritation even in high concentrations. It can be used by people with delicate, couperose skin. It does not sensitize to the sun (on the contrary – it protects the skin against the negative effects of radiation and supports the action of UV filters). It promotes collagen synthesis more than pure ascorbic acid. It is effective in concentrations of 0.5-3%, and in the higher concentrations, it is simply unmatched.
In my opinion, it is one of the most effective derivatives of vitamin C. I really appreciate its delicacy – we rarely find active ingredients that, with such spectacular effects, remain gentle to the skin.
At BIOUP, we use it in our cosmetics:
Active serum with vitamin C NO AGE – in a concentration of 8%
YOUTH GLOW smoothing anti-aging serum – concentration 4%
MOON SHOT regenerating serum – at a concentration of 2%
VITAMIN TREASURE concentrated eye serum – at a concentration of 2.5%
It is also worth paying attention to other modern, water-soluble derivatives of vitamin C: 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate.
What concentration of vitamin C in the cosmetic works and will bring results?
We most often expect a brightening effect from vitamin C. A bit forgetting that its main potential is a strong anti-aging effect, not only temporary, but long-term. It’s like an investment in beautiful skin that maintains youth for a long time. When writing this, I mainly refer to its antioxidant action (eliminating free radicals) and stimulating the production of collagen, preventing its degradation, and protecting against photoaging. Higher concentrations of this substance will be more effective, but the form of the vitamin is critical, not the concentration. My observations show that when we see a declaration of high concentration (10-15-20%) on the packaging, it is usually ascorbic acid. As I mentioned earlier – it is also conditioned by its low price. I would definitely recommend other forms – and it is their concentration that I would pay attention to when choosing a cosmetic. The data given below should be treated as indicative, remembering that the effectiveness of the cosmetic also consists of a number of accompanying substances.
Ascorbyl Tetraizopalmitate – effective at a concentration of 0.5% -2%, visible effects 3-6%, wow effect 8-10%
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid – effective at a concentration of 1-2%, visible effects 3-5%
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate – effective at 0.2-2%, visible effects 3-5%
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is effective at 0.2-2%
Ascorbyl Glucoside 1-2%
Strengthening the action of vitamin C in cosmetics
Although vitamin C itself is a substance with unique potential, a properly selected company will strengthen its effect. Therefore, apart from the concentration, the remaining ingredients of the cosmetic are extremely important. Vitamin E – Tocopherol – forms a duo with vitamin C, which strengthens each other’s effect. The deeper penetration of vitamin C into the skin structure is ensured by substances that are penetration promoters – squalane from sugar cane and light squalane. The lightening acids, which are additionally antioxidants: phytic acid and alpha-lipoic acid, and accompanying antioxidants – such as, for example, coenzyme Q10, will also work favorably.